Xôi in 30 seconds. What: steamed glutinous rice, sweet or savoury. When: breakfast, roughly 5:30 to 9:30 a.m. Where: street stalls, market corners, small shops, mobile carts. Price: 10,000 to 40,000 VND ($0.40 to $1.55) for most street portions. How to order: point at the topping, name your price, ask for add-ons.
What xôi is and why it is Vietnam's everyday breakfast
Xôi is glutinous rice, steamed rather than boiled, eaten plain or with sweet and savoury toppings. The word for glutinous rice is nếp, the cooked dish is xôi, and the verb for steaming it is đồ. Pronunciation is roughly "soy", with a rising tone.
It works as a breakfast because it is cheap, dense and portable. Vendors start before dawn, wrap portions in banana leaf or paper, and hand them over in a plastic bag. Office workers, students and construction crews eat it standing, walking or on the motorbike. Sticky rice fills you up for hours, which matters when lunch is far away.
Vietnam's official tourism material describes xôi as an old dish with a long history in the northern delta, where glutinous rice was eaten before plain white rice became everyday food. Treat that history as context rather than a precise date.
How xôi is made and why the rice matters
Nếp rice varieties
Northern cooks favour nếp cái hoa vàng, a round, fragrant grain that steams up glossy and separate. Upland rice, nếp nương, comes from the Northwest highlands and gives a firmer, nuttier grain. Nếp cẩm is the black-purple glutinous rice behind purple xôi. Long-grain jasmine rice cannot replace any of them: it lacks the amylopectin that makes the grains cling.
That stickiness has nothing to do with gluten. "Glutinous" is a texture word, not a protein.
Soaking and steaming
The rice soaks for several hours, often overnight, then drains and steams in a chõ or xửng, a bamboo or aluminium steamer set over a tall pot of boiling water. Stalls keep the pot going all morning, the rice covered with cloth or banana leaf to hold the heat and moisture.
You can judge a stall by sight. Good xôi has separate, shiny, tender grains with no hard core and no wet mush. Tired xôi looks clumped, dull or dry at the edges, a sign it has been sitting since before dawn.
Natural colours
Colour comes from plants: gấc fruit for deep red, lá cẩm for magenta and purple, turmeric for yellow, pandan leaf for green, butterfly pea for blue. Some stalls use artificial colouring instead. A gấc seed pressed on top of red xôi is read by some locals as a sign of natural dye, but it is a habit, not a guarantee.
Types of xôi: a field guide
| Vietnamese name | What it is | Main ingredients | Sweet or savoury | Vegetarian-friendly? | Usual region |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xôi trắng | Plain sticky rice | Glutinous rice | Neutral | Yes | Everywhere |
| Xôi lạc | Peanut xôi | Rice, peanuts, salt | Savoury-neutral | Yes, check fat | North and centre |
| Xôi đậu xanh | Mung bean xôi | Rice, mung bean | Neutral | Yes, check fat | Everywhere |
| Xôi đậu đen | Black bean xôi | Rice, black beans | Neutral | Yes, check fat | Everywhere |
| Xôi ngô / bắp | Corn xôi | Rice, sweetcorn | Slightly sweet | Yes, check fat | South |
| Xôi vò | Mung bean "crumb" xôi | Rice, mung bean, coconut | Slightly sweet | Often | North and centre |
| Xôi gấc | Red gac xôi | Rice, gac fruit, sugar, coconut | Sweet-leaning | Yes, check fat | Everywhere |
| Xôi lá dứa | Pandan xôi | Rice, pandan leaf, coconut milk | Sweet-leaning | Often | South |
| Xôi nước dừa | Coconut xôi | Rice, coconut milk | Sweet-leaning | Often | South |
| Xôi cẩm | Purple xôi | Black glutinous rice | Neutral | Yes | North |
| Xôi xéo | Turmeric xôi with mung bean | Rice, turmeric, mung bean, fried shallots, fat | Savoury | No (fat) | Hanoi, north |
| Xôi khúc | Cudweed-leaf xôi | Rice, cudweed, pork, mung bean | Savoury | No | North |
| Xôi gà | Shredded chicken xôi | Rice, chicken, fried shallots | Savoury | No | Everywhere |
| Xôi lạp xưởng | Sausage xôi | Rice, Chinese-style sausage | Savoury | No | Everywhere |
| Xôi pate chả | Pate and pork roll xôi | Rice, pate, pork roll | Savoury | No | North |
| Xôi thịt kho | Braised pork xôi | Rice, braised pork | Savoury | No | South |
| Xôi trứng | Egg xôi | Rice, egg | Savoury | Sometimes | Everywhere |
| Xôi ruốc / chà bông | Pork floss xôi | Rice, pork floss | Savoury | No | Everywhere |
| Xôi ngũ sắc | Five-colour xôi | Rice, plant dyes | Neutral | Yes | Northwest highlands |
Plain and vegetarian-friendly xôi
Xôi trắng is the base: plain, mild, chewy, eaten with sesame salt or a topping. Peanut, mung bean, black bean and corn versions add texture and a little flavour without meat. Xôi vò mixes mung bean through the rice so it looks like crumbs. Red gấc xôi, pandan xôi and coconut xôi lean sweet and are often eaten with sugar, sesame or grated coconut.
Savoury xôi mặn
In the north, xôi mặn works like a build-your-own plate. The vendor scoops the rice, then adds shredded chicken, sausage, pate, pork roll, egg or pork floss, plus fried shallots and a drizzle of fat or soy sauce. You choose what goes on. In the south, braised pork and egg versions are common, and the rice may be finished with scallion oil.
Xôi xéo and the Hanoi classics
Xôi xéo is the Hanoi benchmark: turmeric-yellow rice, a slab of mashed mung bean, fried shallots, and a spoon of chicken fat or oil to bind it. Xôi khúc wraps sticky rice around a filling of pork and mung bean with cudweed leaf, and it is more of a northern speciality. Around the Old Quarter, the northern range of savoury xôi is wider than anywhere else in the country.
Fried and unusual forms
Xôi chiên is fried sticky rice, and xôi chiên phồng is the puffed version, where the rice expands into a crisp shell. Skewered grilled sticky rice, xôi nướng, turns up at markets and street stalls. Five-colour xôi is a showpiece of the Northwest highlands as well as of festivals, coloured with leaves and roots rather than dye.
Sweet xôi versus dessert xôi
Sweet xôi can be breakfast or dessert. Vietnamese menus often group it with chè and snacks, so a sweet version at 7 a.m. is normal, not a mistake. If you want savoury, say so: point at the toppings you want and skip the sugar.
Regional styles: how xôi changes from north to south
| Region | Typical xôi | Distinctive features | Where to look |
|---|---|---|---|
| North (Hanoi, Red River Delta) | Xôi xéo, xôi khúc, xôi pate chả, xôi gà | Widest savoury range, sesame-salt dip, chicken fat | Old Quarter streets, morning markets |
| Northwest and Northeast highlands | Xôi ngũ sắc, nếp nương, cơm lam | Plant dyes, upland rice, bamboo-tube cooking | Markets in Sapa, Bac Ha, Mai Chau, Ha Giang |
| Centre (Hue, Da Nang, Hoi An) | Xôi vò, xôi with shredded pork or chicken | Smaller portions, sweeter or peppery toppings | Market stalls, dessert stalls |
| South (Saigon, Mekong Delta) | Xôi bắp, coconut xôi, xôi gà | Corn, coconut milk, grated coconut, sesame salt | Morning carts, market edges |
Northern Vietnam
Hanoi has the deepest savoury repertoire. Xôi xéo, xôi khúc and xôi pate chả are local staples, and the sesame-salt-sugar dip is common with plain xôi. Stalls cluster around the Old Quarter and the streets near the main markets, and the busiest sell out by 9 a.m.
Northwest and Northeast highlands
Tay, Thai, Nung and other communities steam nếp nương in five colours for festivals and market days. Cơm lam, sticky rice cooked inside bamboo tubes, is sold at markets around Sapa, Mai Chau and Ha Giang. These are local food traditions, not a performance for visitors, so buy, eat and move on without photographing people's faces up close.
Central Vietnam
Portions in Hue and Da Nang tend to be smaller, and toppings can be sweeter or more peppery than in the north. Xôi vò is common, and sticky rice also appears at dessert stalls next to chè. In Hoi An, the market area is the easiest place to find a morning portion.
Southern Vietnam
Saigon runs on mobile carts. Xôi bắp, corn sticky rice, is a breakfast standard, often finished with grated coconut and sesame salt. Coconut-forward versions and sweet xôi are widespread, and carts move between residential streets and market edges through the morning.
Where to eat xôi for breakfast
Verify before you go. Street stalls move, close and change hours. Check the address on the day, and treat any list as a starting point rather than a guarantee.
Hanoi
Start in the Old Quarter, where the densest cluster of long-standing xôi stalls sits on and around Nguyễn Hữu Huân and the surrounding streets. Hours are roughly 5:30 to 9:30 a.m., and some stalls reopen in the evening. Order xôi xéo first if you want the Hanoi classic, then try a build-your-own xôi mặn.
Hue and Central Vietnam
Morning stalls near the main markets in Hue and Da Nang are the simplest bet, and Hoi An's market area has vendors through the early morning. Arrive before 8 a.m. for the best selection.
Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta
In Saigon, look for carts near markets and on residential streets, especially for xôi bắp and xôi gà. In the Mekong Delta, xôi turns up as a riverside and floating-market breakfast, sold from boats and small stalls in the early hours.
Northwest highlands
Markets in Sapa, Bac Ha, Mai Chau and Ha Giang are the place for five-colour xôi and cơm lam. Market days bring the widest choice, and the food is freshest in the first hours after opening.
How to find a good stall anywhere
Look for a queue of locals, a covered steamer visibly in use, rice that is warm and glossy, and quick turnover. Toppings should be kept covered, not sitting in the sun. Buy before about 9 a.m. while the rice is freshest.
How to order and eat xôi like a local
Ordering step by step
Point at the type you want, then set the size by price: mười nghìn (10,000 VND) for a small portion, hai mươi nghìn (20,000 VND) for a larger one. Add toppings with thêm: thêm chả (more pork roll), thêm trứng (more egg), thêm ruốc (more pork floss). Say ăn ở đây to eat there or mang về to take away.
Useful phrases
| English | Vietnamese | Rough pronunciation | When to use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sticky rice | Xôi | soy | At any stall |
| Plain sticky rice | Xôi trắng | soy trang | If you want no topping |
| How much? | Bao nhiêu? | bow nyew | Before ordering |
| 10,000 dong please | Mười nghìn | muh-ee nyin | To set portion size |
| 20,000 dong please | Hai mươi nghìn | hi muh-ee nyin | For a bigger portion |
| More egg | Thêm trứng | tem troong | Add-on |
| More pork roll | Thêm chả | tem cha | Add-on |
| No meat, no fat | Không thịt, không mỡ | khom tit, khom muh | Vegetarian request |
| Vegetarian | Chay | chai | Ask for a vegetarian version |
| Eat here | Ăn ở đây | an uh day | Stay at the stall |
| Take away | Mang về | mang veh | Wrap it up |
How it is served and eaten
Xôi comes in a bowl or on a plate with a spoon or chopsticks, or wrapped in banana leaf or paper inside a plastic bag. It is best eaten hot. Pair it with hot soy milk (sữa đậu nành), tea, iced coffee or fruit, and with pickles (đồ chua) if you ordered savoury.
Etiquette and small practicalities
Stools are small and tables are shared, so eat and move on at peak hours. Pay at the end, and bring small notes: breaking a 500,000 VND note at 6 a.m. is difficult.
Prices, opening hours and what a breakfast really costs
Prices below are indicative for 2026, at roughly 26,000 VND per USD.
| Item | Price in VND | Price in USD | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain xôi (corn, peanut, mung bean) | 10,000 to 20,000 | $0.40 to $0.80 | Small street portion |
| Xôi mặn with a few toppings | 20,000 to 40,000 | $0.80 to $1.55 | Most common breakfast order |
| Tourist-area or specialty shop | 30,000 to 60,000 | $1.15 to $2.30 | Higher rent, bigger portions |
| Each add-on | 5,000 to 15,000 | $0.20 to $0.60 | Egg, sausage, pate, floss |
| Soy milk or coffee | 10,000 to 25,000 | $0.40 to $1.00 | Typical pairing |
| Full breakfast total | 30,000 to 70,000 | $1.15 to $2.70 | Xôi plus a drink |
Portions are measured by scoop and often priced by the bag or bowl, so ask bao nhiêu? before ordering to avoid confusion. Figures vary by city and stall.
Dietary needs, allergies and food safety
Vegetarian and vegan options
Safe starting points are xôi lạc, xôi đậu, xôi ngô and xôi gấc, but stalls often scatter fried shallots in lard or pork fat, or finish the rice with chicken fat. Say không thịt, không mỡ (no meat, no fat) and watch what goes into the scoop. Full moon and new moon days (rằm and mùng 1) bring out more vegetarian stalls.
Allergens and gluten
Watch for peanut, sesame, dried shrimp, pork floss, soy sauce (which contains wheat) and egg. Glutinous rice itself is gluten-free, but sauces and toppings may not be, and cross-contact at a busy stall is likely. Stalls rarely label ingredients, so carry a translated allergy card. Be honest with yourself: at a street stall, cross-contact cannot be ruled out.
Street food hygiene
Choose busy stalls with hot rice and covered toppings. Avoid pate, chicken or eggs that have been sitting in the sun, and skip anything left uncovered in the heat. Carry hand sanitiser. Xôi is dense and high in carbohydrate, which suits a morning start but can feel heavy in hot weather or before a long bus ride.
Xôi in ritual and festivals
Xôi appears on ancestor altars, at weddings and at house-warmings, and red xôi gấc carries a symbolism of luck. Offerings are common on the 1st and 15th lunar days, when vegetarian eating is also more common.
Tet, Lunar New Year, falls on 6 February 2027. In the weeks before, xôi gấc and other sticky rice dishes are especially visible. The Han Thuc (Cold Food) festival falls on the 3rd day of the 3rd lunar month, roughly early to mid April, when sticky rice sweets are traditional in the north; confirm the exact date locally.
Tet warning. Many stalls close for several days around the first lunar days. Breakfast options shrink to hotels and a few shops, so plan around it.
Xôi compared with similar sticky rice dishes
| Dish | Rice form | Cooked how | Wrapped or not | When eaten |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xôi | Glutinous rice | Steamed | Sometimes in leaf or paper | Breakfast, snacks, rituals |
| Cơm lam | Glutinous rice | Inside bamboo tubes over fire | Bamboo tube | Highland meals, markets |
| Bánh chưng / bánh tét | Glutinous rice with pork and mung bean | Boiled, wrapped tight | Banana leaf | Tet |
| Thai mango sticky rice | Glutinous rice with coconut | Steamed, sweetened | No | Dessert |
| Lao khao niao | Glutinous rice | Steamed in baskets | No | With meals |
Cơm lam is a highland speciality, not a breakfast xôi. Bánh chưng and bánh tét are wrapped, boiled cakes, Tet food rather than street breakfast. Thai mango sticky rice and Lao khao niao are neighbouring traditions; Vietnamese xôi is more often savoury and morning-oriented. Some toppings, such as Chinese-style sausage, share roots with Chinese rice dishes, but the comparison stops there.
Making xôi at home and bringing it back
The essentials in five lines: soak the rice for several hours, drain well, steam for about 30 to 40 minutes, season with salt or sugar, and add coconut milk for the southern versions. Outside Vietnam, buy nếp rice and frozen gấc pulp at Asian grocers. For a cooking class, ask at your hotel or the local tourist information office.
If you plan to take food home, check the customs rules of your destination before packing dried rice, gac products or anything meat-based, and follow official guidance only.
FAQ
Q: What is xôi in Vietnam? Xôi is steamed glutinous rice served sweet or savoury, usually for breakfast. It is sold by weight or by the portion from street stalls, carts and small shops, often before 6 a.m.
Q: What does Vietnamese sticky rice taste like? Plain xôi is mild, soft and chewy. Flavour comes from the toppings, such as fried shallots, peanuts, sesame salt, pate, chicken or sausage, or from coconut, gac and pandan in sweeter versions.
Q: How much does xôi cost? Most street portions cost about 10,000 to 40,000 VND ($0.40 to $1.55), with tourist-area or specialty shops higher. Add-ons usually run 5,000 to 15,000 VND each.
Q: Is xôi vegetarian? Plain peanut, bean, corn and gac xôi can be, but toppings and fats often include pork or chicken. Ask for xôi chay or không thịt, không mỡ, and watch the scoop.
Q: Is xôi gluten-free? The rice itself contains no gluten, but soy sauce and some toppings can, and cross-contact at stalls is possible. Carry a translated allergy card and stay cautious.
Q: What is the difference between xôi and mango sticky rice? Thai mango sticky rice is a coconut-based dessert. Xôi is a broad Vietnamese category, mainly savoury or lightly sweet breakfast rice. Xôi xoài exists in Vietnam but is not the typical breakfast.
Q: What time do xôi stalls open and close? Most operate from roughly 5:30 a.m. until mid-morning, and some reopen in the afternoon or evening. The best selection is early.
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