What it is and a little history
The main building at 1 Tràng Tiền was built for the French School of the Far East, a research institute for Asian studies, and completed in 1932. The architect was Ernest Hébrard. He mixed French layout with Chinese and Vietnamese roof forms and details, and the result is one of the most elegant buildings in Hanoi.
Today the museum spans two buildings. The main one covers prehistory up to 1945. A second building across the street covers the modern era. Your ticket gets you into the national collection, so plan to see both if you have the energy.
What to look at
Start with the Đông Sơn bronze drums. They were cast more than two thousand years ago and are decorated with birds, boats, geometric bands and scenes of daily life, ritual and war. The best originals in the country are here, so take your time and look closely at the patterns on the top faces.
Next, find the Cham sculpture. These sandstone figures of gods and dancers come from the kingdoms of central Vietnam and are some of the most beautiful stone carving in the region.
Later rooms trace the dynasties up to the Nguyễn, the last imperial line. Look for court dress and imperial robes, ceramics and royal objects. Then step back outside and look up at the building itself: the rotunda and roofline are worth a few minutes.
When to go
Go early in the day. The galleries are calmer, and you avoid the hottest hours walking between the two buildings. Weekdays are quieter than weekends, when school groups and local families visit.
It is also a good rainy-day choice, since almost everything is indoors. Remember that the museum closes one day a week, so check the hours below before you set out.
Combining it with nearby places
The museum sits just behind the Hanoi Opera House, so it fits easily into a half-day walk around Hoan Kiem Lake. Ngoc Son Temple and The Huc Bridge are about 1 km away, and Hang Gai Street in the Old Quarter about 1.3 km.
For a second museum, the Vietnamese Women's Museum is only 0.8 km away. Hai Bà Trưng Temple, 1.4 km south, pairs well if you want a quieter historic site after the galleries.