What it is and its story in brief
The temple honors the spirit of the White Horse, a guardian deity of the city. It is counted among the Four Guardian Temples of old Thang Long, the one protecting the east.
Legend links it to King Ly Thai To, who moved the capital here in 1010. His citadel walls kept collapsing until a white horse appeared and traced the line where they should stand. Most of what you see today was rebuilt in later centuries, but the site has been a place of worship for a very long time.
What to look at
Walk past the street gate into the front hall and let your eyes adjust to the low light. You will see carved and lacquered wooden beams, red and gold altars, and a white horse figure that gives the temple its name.
Look for the ornate palanquin used in processions, the incense burners and the many offerings left by locals. This is a working temple, so you will likely see people praying. Take your time and keep your voice low.
When to go
Weekday mornings and late afternoons are usually the quietest. Note that the temple closes for a lunch break, so check the hours below before you set out.
On Friday, Saturday and Sunday it also reopens in the evening, which fits well with the Old Quarter weekend walking streets. Expect more visitors then.
Combining it with nearby places
Bach Ma Temple sits in the middle of the Old Quarter, so it is easy to link with other stops. The Heritage House at 87 Ma May, O Quan Chuong Gate and Hang Ma Street are all about 0.3 km away. Hang Gai Street is about 0.6 km away.
A good loop: start at the Heritage House, walk to the temple, continue to O Quan Chuong Gate, then return through Hang Ma Street.